2 просмотров
Рейтинг статьи
1 звезда2 звезды3 звезды4 звезды5 звезд
Загрузка...

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

Обзор OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronometer. Амфибия из Бьенна

Ответвление коллекции Omega Seamaster в виде более «легкой» версии Aqua Terra 150 M окончательно оформилось в 2003 году, хотя еще с 1994 года существовала идеологически похожая модель Seamaster 120 (с водонепроницаемостью 120 м) – предшественник Aqua Terra. В основе появления этой линейки лежит «концепция единственных часов» – измерительного инструмента, который можно использовать и со строгой одеждой в офисе, и в более свободных условиях, не беспокоясь о возможном ущербе от случайного попадания жидкости внутрь часов. Логично, что дайверские модели Seamaster с водозащитой 300 м, гелиевым клапаном и внушительными размерами на эту роль годились крайне слабо.

Aqua Terra первого поокления (2003-й год)

Спустя 5 лет, на Базельской выставке 2008 года, перед лицом поклонников марки предстает обновленная Aqua Terra 150 M, получившая не только новые коаксиальные автоматические механизмы серии 8500, но и интересные изменения в стилистике оформления циферблата. Именно такая модель, Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Chronometer, и побывала на тесте WatchDaily.

Стальной корпус диаметром 41.5 мм имеет вполне типичную для всей коллекции Seamaster форму средней части с утопленной примерно на 1/3 заводной коронкой и элегантным сочетанием сатинированных и полированных поверхностей, в частности, полированную расширяющуюся фаску на дужках крепления ремня/браслета. Толщина средней части корпуса относительно невелика, что создает в глазах покупателя образ более тонкого профиля, чем он есть на самом деле.

Необходимый добор высоты для пространства под размещение циферблата и стрелок происходит за счет скошенного под 45 градусов безеля – традиционный прием, которым пользуются часовые дизайнеры при создании тонких часов. Ввиду того, что безель еще и полирован, он в данной ситуации становится самым уязвимым элементом для появления царапин или микросколов в процессе эксплуатации. Фронтальную часть модели завершает выпуклое сапфировое стекло с двухсторонним антибликовым покрытием.

Что до оборотной стороны исследуемой Aqua Terra, то там установлена завинчивающаяся крышка с прозрачным сапфировым стеклом. Столь основательное крепление этого элемента вызвано тем, что корпус гарантирует степень водозащиты 150 м. О том, что это не просто слова, говорит также и завинчивающаяся заводная коронка, размер и форма которой оптимальны для осуществления манипуляций по настройке часов.

Циферблат часов сформирован в двух уровнях – внешний край с минутной разметкой в виде индексов и пятиминутных интервалов с числовым обозначением плоский, а вот центральная часть оформлена с использованием вертикальных полос Teak Concept, что должно ассоциироваться в глазах обывателя с тиковым покрытием яхтенных палуб. До конца уверенным в таком сравнении быть нельзя, а вот то, что такой циферблат дает удивительную игру света в зависимости от угла освещения – очевидно.

Часовые метки имеют форму наконечника копья и аккуратно заполнены люминофором в треугольных желобках. Макроувеличение показывает, что грани меток аккуратно скошены и полированы. Аналогичным образом обстоит ситуация и с трапециевидной рамкой окна даты (в положении «3 часа»), качество исполнения которой вызывает лишь позитивные эмоции.

Стоит отметить, что дата напечатана шрифтом белого цвета на диске, цвет которого при более детальном рассмотрении отличается от цвета основного циферблата (он черный, а циферблат в нашем случае – темно-синий), что не позволяет начислить еще один балл за внимание к деталям в зачет тестируемой модели. Да и движение диска для смены даты начинается довольно рано, уже после 22.00, что кого-то может и расстроить (эту особенность калибров 8500 и 9300 мы уже отмечали в своих обзорах).

Родированные стрелки выполнены предельно аккуратно и характеризуются необходимым наличием люминесцентного состава в тех местах, где это необходимо для безошибочного определения текущего времени в условиях темноты. К сожалению, эффективность светоотдачи ощутимо хуже побывавших в нашей лаборатории вариантов Speedmaster Co-Axial и Seamaster Planet Ocean – для демонстрации удовлетворительных результатов часы должны довольно длительное время находиться в условиях яркого освещения.

Форма минутной и часовой стрелок изначально происходит от типа dauphine, однако минутная имеет фирменное стреловидное окончание, а часовая – окончание скошенное, максимально соответствующее аналогичной части накладных часовых меток. Стилистически это выглядит безупречно, тем не менее, ощущение некоторой «обрезанности» часовой стрелки все-таки присутствует.

Но оставим вкусовые предпочтения тем, кто голосует за выбор часов звонкой монетой, и перейдем к технической составляющей Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Chronometer, калибру Omega 8500. Самый подробный анализ многих достоинств и редких недостатков этого механизма изложен в нашем обзоре), мне же остается напомнить, что калибр сертифицирован в качестве хронометра, что предполагает среднесуточную точность хода в пределах от -4 до +6 секунд. Как показала практика, точность тестируемого экземпляра отклонялась примерно на +4 с в сутки при типовом поведении «день на руке – ночь на полке (заводной коронкой вверх)». Большинство владельцев такая точность устроит, ну а тем, кто находится в поисках идеала, рекомендуем «поиграться» с положением корпуса часов в момент их «отдыха».

Автоподзавод зарекомендовал себя с самой наилучшей стороны – при не самых активных движениях запястья в течение дня, часы продолжали спокойно отсчитывать время утром следующих суток. Ну а полный запас хода в 60 часов позволяет положить часы на полку вечером в пятницу, чтобы взять их оттуда функционирующими в понедельник утром. Впрочем, универсальность модели такова, что она может оказаться вашим лучшим компаньоном и на выходных…

Часы Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronometer располагают к себе. Они удобно сидят на запястье, имеют небольшой вес, оптимальный размер и не бояться случайным образом пострадать в водной среде. Циферблат, особенно в темно-синем цвете, красив и удобочитаем. Внимание к деталям порой зашкаливает. Механизм в свою очередь мануфактурен, современен и точен. Если у вас нет каких-то особых предубеждений к марке из Бьенна, то лучшего и желать трудно, особенно с учетом того, что компания Omega все еще просит за свое творение вполне разумные деньги.

Читать еще:  Otam выпустила суперяхту Gipsy

Некоторые измерения WatchDaily

  • Диаметр 41 мм
  • Толщина 13,1 мм
  • Длина 48,2 мм
  • Расстояние между дужек 20 мм
  • Вес 94 г (кожаный ремень)
  • Референс/reference часов 231.10.42.21.03.001 (стальной браслет)

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer Watch Review

I n 2017 Omega released a slew of new Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M watch models, which offered easy to miss, albeit important changes to the brand’s premier sports lifestyle dress watch. Sport-style dress watches are important in many markets such as the United States, where elegance as well as masculinity are key areas of interest for many consumers. The Aqua Terra isn’t just designed for the United States however, which makes the larger Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Master Chronometer watches very important global products for Omega. Let’s take a close look at just one of the many versions of the updated Aqua Terra timepieces in this aBlogtoWatch review.

While many people think of hardcore dive watches when they think of the Omega Seamaster collection, the more casually-themed Aqua Terra better represents the first Omega Seamaster watches (from 1948). At the time the Seamaster wasn’t a serious sport watch, but was rather a sportier dress watch that a “well to do father could wear while playing with his children and not worry about getting wear or experiencing some shock.” Thus, from the beginning the Seamaster was a luxury lifestyle item (with utility behind it of course), and not the serious diving instrument that versions of the Seamaster later evolved into.

As a sportier timepiece (despite the dressier appearance), the Seamaster Aqua Terra will easily handle the majority of what a wearer could throw at it. 150m of water resistance easily allows for even recreational diving, and the chunky metal case is robust enough to put up with its share of abuse and wear. The dial also happens to be highly legible, with enough lume for a clear view in darker environments. In many regards, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is a very capable sport watch, though its intent is to be a status-symbol dress watch (or at the very least a fashion statement) at what are almost entry-level prices from the brand.

While many people admire Omega for Speedmaster chronographs and Planet Ocean divers, models such as the Aqua Terra (as well as the even dressier De Ville models) are those which Omega intends for the wrists of professionals needing a handsome timepiece for urban or business professional needs. It’s supposed to be just sporty enough to suggest an active lifestyle (or an appreciation thereof), but with an elegance which lends itself well to more formal attire.

The funny thing is that Omega’s current marketing for the Aqua Terra sees its wearers (some of which are the brand’s celebrity ambassadors) on boats, traveling, and generally doing things one might not consider work, but rather leisure. This lends itself well to attractive visuals, but Omega’s point is more that people who wear Aqua Terra watches regularly reward themselves for working hard – and this makes the Aqua Terra a timepiece for hard working professionals (all over the world).

Omega has long since wanted the Aqua Terra to rival some of Rolex’s similar sporty/dressy timepieces ranging from the Milgauss to the Datejust. Today the Aqua Terra is more directly a competitor of the Milgauss – even though Omega is clearly more prolific with its design choices and even has various size options (there are currently 22 versions of this watch on the Omega website). The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M comes in both 38mm and 41mm wide sizes for men – along with a host of strap, bracelet, material, and dial options. These choices also allow for a sportier and more casual wearing feel, to more conservative, dress-style ranges. I chose to review this 41mm wide Aqua Terra reference 220.10.41.21.02.001 in steel on the matching steel bracelet because I felt as though it was a good mixture between the sportier and dressier sides of the collection.

Let’s return to what Omega updated in 2017 with this latest family of Aqua Terra models. It includes mostly aesthetic refinements along with technical upgrades. The most important update is the across-the-board use of METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements. Inside this watch is the in-house developed and produced Omega caliber 8900 Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. For many people, the biggest upgrade in this movement compared to outgoing ones is high magnetism (15,000 Gauss) resistance.

Omega chose the Aqua Terra collection to debut its anti-magnetic movements back in 2014 with the release of the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss (aBlogtoWatch review here). Since then Omega has promised that over the next few years it would slowly replace all in-house made movements with those which are METAS-certified. Moving forward, all Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra watches will contain the high performing METAS-certified movements. This is important not only because of the price point of the Aqua Terra models, but also because of the high-volume nature of this production. METAS certification began as a low-volume effort and has since blossomed into a really impressive process located within Omega’s newly opened and expanded movement manufacturing and watch assembly factory (that I recently had the pleasure of visiting) in Biel, Switzerland.

To show the practical utility of METAS-certified movements, I demonstrated the magnetic resistance of these movements to a friend. The movements (either the calibre 8800, 8900, or 8901 depending on the specific Aqua Terra model) can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback window, which means there is no special magnetic shielding. Rather, the movement simply doesn’t have ferrous metal parts. Going back to my demonstration, I proceeded to take a particularly strong kitchen magnet and placed it on the back of the case (it didn’t even lightly attach). One could see that the movement was operating normally. This certainly wouldn’t have been the case with a more traditional movement that is subject to magnetism.

The calibre 8900 automatic movement is simple and very nice to look at in addition to its solid timing performance. The automatic movement operates at 4Hz with 60 hours of power reserve (between two barrels), and of course has an Omega Co-Axial escapement. The movement features some silicon parts such as the balance spring. When the crown is pulled out one stop, you can independently adjust the hour hand, which makes the movement ideal for those who travel frequently. This is also how you adjust the date – though it takes a bit longer than a traditional quick-set date adjustment feature. My favorite thing about Omega’s movements is how they look. I continue to feel that they produce some of the most attractive industrially-made mechanical movements out there.

Читать еще:  Капсульная коллекция Gaastra

Introducing The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The latest in lightweight mechanical sports watches from Omega features a movement made in ceramized titanium.

Today we have an extremely lightweight, ergonomic, and sports-friendly mechanical wristwatch from Omega to introduce. It draws on the company’s penchant for developing hugely amagnetic chronometer-certified wristwatches while also taking the overall mass down (to 55 grams, or about the weight of 11 nickels), a plus for comfort and for reducing the effects of shocks on the mechanism inside. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light’s case, case back, and crown are all made of an alloy called Gamma Titanium, a first use for Omega. And the dial has been designed to use less material and therefore weigh less. There’s also no date display, which helps in reducing weight to a bare minimum.

The ergonomics of the watch are enhanced by a push-in, push-out telescopic crown (you push the crown in and it pops out to the setting position, and push in again to put it back in place when you’re done) . In the images below, you can see it in either state. In addition to causing the watch to look more streamlined and symmetrical when the crown isn’t in use, it also prevents the crown from digging into the wearer’s wrist, an important consideration when the wrist is bent to wield a golf club or, maybe, a baseball bat or tennis racquet. Of course, having a crown that lies flush with the case is far from a major innovation, but in combination with the extremely lightweight construction of the watch, it’s just one more touch that adds to the experience of a timepiece that could really feel like it disappears on the wrist – in a good way.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light comes on a rubber strap, but you also get the fabric sports strap you see here accented in one of three colors: red, blue or green. It’s when worn on this lightweight sports strap that the watch clocks in at only 55 grams.

The lightness of the latest Seamaster Aqua Terra hasn’t come at the expense of accuracy and precision. Omega is presenting an all-new movement, the manually wound Caliber 8928 Titanium, which comes with 5 years of warranty and Omega’s industry-leading Master Chronometer certification. In addition to being highly precise and hugely amagnetic (to 15,000 gauss) this movement is also super lightweight, with its plates and bridges having been made from ceramized titanium. Omega says that in addition to providing a distinctive dark grey color, this material also aids in reducing friction between components.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M

Incredibly solid and classy like hardly any other watch – that’s the Omega Aqua Terra 150M. Thanks to its water-resistance and durability against magnetic fields, it even convinced Daniel Craig in his role as James Bond. More

Sell your used watch through Watchmaster and get up to 50% more than the market average.

Filter by Filter Icon

Buy an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M – new, pre-owned with certificate and vintage

Optical and technical features of the Aqua Terra 150M

In direct comparison, a few discrete changes can be identified in the current collection of the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M. For more proportion, for example, the 41 mm housing has been reconsidered and given a symmetrical design. One of the changes is the improved transition between the bracelet, which is available in rubber, textile (Nato bracelet), stainless steel or 18 carat gold (Sedna™-Gold). The rubber strap blends elegantly with the design of the watch through a single metal link and also offers even more comfort while wearing.

For aesthetic reasons, the date window was also moved from the three- o’clock position back to six o’clock, as on the first Omega with a date window from the year 1952. The lettering «water resistance» was placed on the case back and the strong Teak design of the dial was also adjusted. The «deck-planks» now run horizontally and are slightly wider than on the predecessor models. This gives the Aqua Terra more presence while still maintaining subtle in its appearance.

In the new collection, various dial colour combinations are available, including white with black hands, black with silver hands, blue with silver hands, grey with blue hands and brown, blue or white with Sedna™ gold hands.

Another optical feature is the sapphire crystal back of the Aqua Terra 150M watch. It reveals the heart of one of Omega’s masterpieces, the COSC- and METAS-certified chronometer calibres 8900, 8901 or 8800. All of those three are guaranteeing maximum precision, performance and, as if this wasn’t already enough, magnetic resistance.As the name suggests, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is waterproof up to 15 bar.

Current model variety and Aqua Terra 150M prices

Buying a pre-owned Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is always cheaper

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M James Bond Limited Edition (Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.004)
Price: pre-owned from 4,730 € (2016)
Material: steel
Characteristics: James Bond 007 Spectre Limited Edition, men’s watch, calibre 8507, steel bezel and bracelet, blue dial with yellow second hand, date display at three o’clock

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (Ref. 231.13.39.21.02.003)
Price: pre-owned from 3,400 € (2017)
Material: steel, leather
Characteristics: men’s watch, 38.5 mm steel case, calibre 8500, crocodile-style leather strap, rose gold line indices and hands, date display at three o’clock

Читать еще:  Морской фестиваль в Петербурге

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (Ref. 2517.30.00)
Price: pre-owned from 1,990 € (2009)
Material: steel
Characteristics: men’s watch, 39.2 mm steel case, steel bracelet, silver dial and hour-markers, date display at three o’clock

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (Ref. 2803.34.37)
Price: pre-owned from 2,550 € (2007)
Material: steel, leather
Characteristics: stainless-steel case, black rubber strap, black dial with silver hands, date display at three o’clock

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Day-Date (Ref. 231.10.42.22.02.001)
Price: pre-owned from 3,890 € (2015)
Material: rose gold, steel
Characteristics: men’s watch, water resistant up to 150m, automatic movement, calibre 8602, 41,5 mm steel case, date display at three o’clock

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ladies (Ref. 231.10.30.61.55.001)
Price: pre-owned from 2,500 € (2011)
Material: steel, diamonds
Characteristics: ladies watch, 30 mm case, quartz movement, silver dial with diamonds and hour-markers, date display at three o’clock

The History of the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M

The competition between manufacturers in developing the best divers watch already began back in 1932. At that time, Omega delivered the Omega Marine which was the first model especially designed for divers. After this starting shot was fired, watchmakers and scientists continued to work together to develop meaningful design concepts and technologies for diving watches , but Omega still holds its position as the symbol of these. In 1952, the company presented the Seamaster Calendar, the first wristwatch by Omega with a date window. The model was equipped with the automatic calibre 353 and had a beautifully symmetrical dial – by placing the date display deliberately at the six o’clock position. After many years of constant development, several milestones and new models Omega expanded the famous Seamaster family in 2002 by presenting the popular Aqua Terra collection. The name of the series pays tribute to the spirit of the classic Seamaster watches, which are highly reliable as both under water (Aqua) and on land (Terra).

In the following years, the Omega Aqua Terra 150M was continuously developed, but always with respect to its origin. Typical features such as the shape of the case, dial elements or hands remained untouched. The rest of the components always kept pace with the times. In 2008, the brand changed the appearance of the dial to the teak design which is still used today. The look of the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M, which is inspired by the wooden deck planks of luxury sailing boats, was highly popular among customers and has become a distinctive feature of the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M watches.

In 2013, in the competition for the best magnetic field resistant watch new standards were set. With the Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss, Omega has set a milestone that changed the world of watchmaking: The use of certain iron-free materials for the movement made it possible to create a calibre with an antimagnetic resistance of up to 15,000 Gauss. This is a significantly higher level of resistance than one would actually need in everyday life. For scientists and doctors who work with magnetic resonance or other devices, however, this feature is quite important.

A short portrait of the Seamaster collection

In total, the Omega Seamaster series comprises eight collections, each with its own unique character. In addition to the Aqua Terra, these are the following:

  • Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M — delighting watch enthusiasts since 1993. It measures 42 mm, is powered by the Master Chronometer calibre 8800 and is considered a full divers watch. It is water resistant up to 30 bar.
  • Omega Seamaster 300 — This watch was especially developed and launched for divers in 1957. After more than half a century it looks almost the same today as it did back then, but is technically absolutely up to date.
  • Omega Seamaster Railmaster — Also launched in 1957, this watch captivates due to its simple design and classic minuterie. The current collection is based on the original model and has a retro style.
  • Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 M — a divers watch which has been fascinating the watch world since 2005. Due to its water resistance up to 60 bar and its innovative design, it embodies the highest watchmaking standards.
  • Omega Seamaster 1948 — This collection is a tribute to Omega’s first watch family, the Seamaster itself. It was first presented to the public in 1948 and now as well as back then the models shine in simple elegance.
  • Omega Seamaster Bullhead — It distinguishes itself from all other watches of the brand by its distinctive case. It first saw the light of day in 1969 and one characteristic has remained the same: The crown at the twelve o’clock position.
  • Seamaster Ploprof 1200 M — Back in 1970 it already was one of the most robust divers watches in the world. It can withstand pressures of up to 120 bar and its name derives from the French words «Plongeur professionnel», meaning «professional diver».

Commander James Bond’s choice of Aqua Terra 150M watches

Since 1995, the world’s most famous secret agent has worn Omega watches. We are talking about Bond, James Bond. As a former member of the Navy, he combines his past with the past of Omega, which is one of the reasons for choosing the brand. In the film «Skyfall», actor Daniel Craig alias 007 wears the Aqua Terra 150M (Ref. 231.10.39.21.03.001). The watch is also featured in the movie «Spectre» in which the agent is equipped with an Aqua Terra 150 M (Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003). Both watches are an excellent choice, because both Commander Bond and the watches appear very sporty and yet elegant.

Omega launched the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M James Bond Limited Edition for the premiere of the film in 2015, which additionally symbolizes a birthday present. The MI6 agent has been wearing the brand’s watches for about 20 years now. The anniversary model is limited to 7,007 pieces and sets colourful accents with its yellow numerals and second hands.

Ссылка на основную публикацию
Статьи c упоминанием слов:

Adblock
detector